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(No Model.)

W. ROGERS.

SHOE. No. 284,066 Patented. Aug. 28, 1888.

'iX-'ITNESSES: 277 Z INVENTOR .www iw/fw i666 l By yiiomey.

N. PETERS. Pllom-Limugmphar. wnshingvn. o. C.

UNITED STATESY PATENT OFFICE.

VARNER ROGERS, `OF CINCINNATI, OHIO.

SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 284,066, dated August28, 1.883.

Application filed May 28, 1383.

To all whom it may concern,

Be it known that I, VARNER Roo-Ens, of Cincinnati, in the county ofHamilton and State of Ohio, have invented a new and useful Improvementin Shoes, which improvement is fully set forth in the followingspecification and accompanying drawings, in which- Figure l is aperspective view of the under side of the last surrounded by the upperpreparatory to placing slip-sole on the same. Fig. 2 is a view of thenew and improved forni of slip-sole or permanent inner sole, partly insection. Fig. 3 is a view of the inner sole placed on the last and theupper lasted thereto; Fig. 4, view of the inside or upper side of theinner sole after theinner sole,'upper, and outer sole have been stitchedtogether and before the iiaps have been turned down, as in the finishedshoe; Fig. 5, same view, showing the inner sole made in two parts; Fig.6, crosssectional view of shoe after the sole and upper have beenstitched and before the retaining-plate has been removed; Fig. 7, samewith retaining-plate removed and the side flaps of the inner solepasteddown onto the line of stitching, Fig. 8, vertical longitudinalsection of shoe preparatory to removing the retaining-plate, and Fig. 9,view of retaining-plate.

The object of the present invention is to provide a way for making ashoe with a permanent insole without lasting the vamp to the forwardpart of the said insole by means of tacks, this inner sole being so madethat only the rear half of it and around the toe is stitched to theouter sole and vamp, while the ball is left free without having thestitches exposed.

It is a well-known fact to manufacturers and users of the shoe that ifboth the insole and outer sole are stitched together, with the upperbetween, the sole becomes stiff, owing to the fact that the inner soleacts as a brace when the ball of the foot bends the same. rIhis constantbending motion of the sole has tendency, owing to the binding andrubbing of the two soles, to gradually wear the stitching or out thesoles along the line of the stitching, thereby greatly destroying theefficiency, durability, and flexibility of the shoe. It is also wellknown that where the vamp is lasted by means of tacks to the ball of theinner sole, (where there is the most pressure from the foot (No model.)

and the most wear on the shoc,) and the tacks clinched and exposed onthe upper side of the inner sole, t-hese tacks work up through the innersole as the shoe wears and become a great annoyance to the wearer, andoften inflict permanent injury to the foot. It is a great desideratum,therefore, to produce a shoe which shall have the upper along theforward half of the shoe sewed onto the outer sole, but not to the innersole.

In former applications for patents I provided for stitching an insole tothe upper and to the outer sole along the rear half of the shoe, andin'afterward placing a'slip-sole in the forward half and pasting thesame over the line of stitching. I find that while the shoe can by thatmeans be successfully made in a cheap and efficient way, it is, in ameasure, difficult to make a neat rounded toe, since there is noresisting or forming medium on the inside of the upper to which theupper can conform.

It is the object of this invention to make proper provision for thesefeatures, so that the insole will be made of one single piece extendingthrough the entire length of the shoe, and have, when completed, thesaid insole stitched to the vamp and outer sole only along the rear halfof the shoe and at the rounded toe portion, allowing the insole alongthe ball of the foot to be free from the outer sole and vamp, therebymaking an easy flexible shoe to the foot, a durable article for wear,and a product which can be cheaply and quickly produced. To accomplishthis purpose I first prepare for cach shoe an inner sole, as shown bythe blank A, Fig. 2, of the proper size and form, and midway between theends, and near the forward end on each side, I cut a transverse slit, B,so as to permit a flap, C, to be turned under, as shown.

D in Fig. 3 shows a plate or pliable piece somewhat narrower than thebottom face of the last, but wider than the insole at the inturnedportion. This plate is' of sufficient length that it does not projectforward nor to the rear of the slits I3, or theinturned portion. rIhetwo outer edges of the plate are provided with pins E. Before the shoeis ready to be lasted, the plate D is placed on the last, with the pinsE upturned, and the insole A put onto the last, over the plate, as shownin Fig.

IOO

2, with the folded-in wings C turned under and resting on the plate. Theinsole is then secured to the last by means ofthe pegs or nails F.The'vamp is then turned down and lasted, as shown at G, to the insole,and also secured to the pins E on the plate along the inturned part C ofthe insole. It will be observed that the edges of the plate do not eX-tend out far enough to interfere with the line of stitching, and thatthe inturned portion of the insole will prevent the stitching fromuniting the insole to the sole and vamp. The nails F are then withdrawn,and the outer sole, H,

' placed on the lasted shoe.

It will be noted that the toe of the insole I serves, as in the ordinaryshoe, to make the contour for the forward part of the shoe,- and -thispart is, during the stitching operation, as

well as the rear half, secured permanently to the vamp and sole. Theouter sole being secured to the shoe, the last is removed, when it isready to be sewed, the line of stitching J passing around the inturnedportion C, as shown more fully in Fig. 4. This being done, the plate Dis withdrawn, exposing the insole, as shown in Fig. 4. The inturned leafor fold C is then turned down onto the vamp and pasted. 1

In some instances it may be preferable to form the insole of two parts,as shown in Fig. 5. In that event I prefer to have the rear piece, K,`'lapped over the forward part, L, at the unity point. In this ease theforward piece has also its edges folded under in'all respects like thesingle piece A, and the process of manufacture the same 'as though theinsole were made of one piece.

I desire particularly to call attention to the fact that by the methodof lasting asherein shown no tacks will be exposed in that part of thesole on which the ball rests, as by the old method, since theretaining-plate or the pliablepiece -holds the edges of the vamp,without making it necessary to resort to tacks, along the ball of thepermanent inner sole.

I am aware that it is not new, broadly, to cut away or indent a portionof the inner s ole along the ball, so that the line of stitches will notpass through the inner sole along this porused in connection with suchinner soles, so

of the innersole. It is therefore immaterial whether the inner sole isindented, inturned, or cut away along the ball so far as it relates tomy method of lasting the upper to the permanent inner sole and to theremovable piece, this method of lasting being one of the principalfeatures of the present invention, in addition to the more specificmanner of construct ing the inner sole with transverse slits andinturned flaps, as herein set forth.

What I claim as new is- 1. The inner sole, formed preparatory to beingplaced in the shoe, with the transverse slits B in the edges, extendingentirely through the sole, opposite each other, and having the inturnedleaves or flaps, substantially as herein set forth. l

2. In the process of manufacturing shoes, first placing a removablelasting-piece on the last, and over this the permanent inner sole havingthe slitted sides and the inturned flaps, so that its cut-away andinturned parts are directly over the said removable piece, and inlasting the upper to the permanent inner sole, along the rear part ofthe inner sole, and around the parts, andl to the removablelasting-piece, along the inturned or cut-away portion of the inner sole,and tacking the outer sole to the inner sole, and in sewing the upperand the inner and the outer soles together along the rear half andaround the toe portion of the shoe, and in only stitching together May,1883, in the presence of witnesses.

WARNER ROGERS.

Y VituesSes:

LoUIs REEMELIN, J. WV. MoDoNALn.

tion; but my method of lasting has never been j,

as to' avoid the use of tacks in the forward part Y the outer sole andthe upper along the ball of 8 5A have hereunto set my hand this 18th dayof 9o

